Psicodelia, dorados y lentejuelas en las pasarelas de París (Foto)

Psicodelia, dorados y lentejuelas en las pasarelas de París (Foto)

Las pasarelas de París brillaron este jueves con lentejuelas y dorados, mientras la directora artística de Chloé se despidió de la marca con un desfile inspirado en los años 1970 y un “optimismo psicodélico”.

AFP

Después de seis años, la británica Clare Waight Keller presentó en la tercera jornada de la Semana de la Moda su última colección con Chloé, la firma en la que trabajó Karl Lagerfeld durante casi dos décadas.





Los años 1970 regresaron para su último desfile con unos cuellos largos y redondeados, encajes en los vestidos cortos y transparencias en los largos. El objetivo, crear un clima de “optimismo psicodélico”.

Waight Keller “rejuveneció el espíritu de Gaby (Aghion, la fundadora de la marca) con una actitud chic y cool, a la vez con vestidos vaporosos, ligeros y una vertiente un poco ‘tomboy’, una mezcla femenina y masculina”, comentó a la AFP el presidente de Chloé, Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye.

Chloé, propiedad del grupo suizo Richemont, ha pedido “paciencia” para conocer el nombre de su sucesor, mientras la publicación especializada Women’s Wear Daily apunta a Natacha Ramsay-Levi, brazo derecho de Nicolas Ghesquière, de Louis Vuitton.

– Las lentejuelas de Paco Rabanne –
Fiel al estilo tradicional de Paco Rabanne, su director artístico Julien Dossena apostó por los atuendos metálicos, con lentejuelas doradas o plateadas y cotas de malla. Las espaldas se dejan completamente al descubierto y las faldas evocan los pareos de playa, algunas anudándose incluso en el costado.

La nueva colección mira además al futuro, con vestidos que combinan los tejidos y formas geométricas, manteniendo un estilo sobrio.

– La mujer felina de Balmain –
Los dorados se mezclan con las tonalidades amarillas y naranjas en la colección de Balmain, que presentó a una mujer felina, segura de sí misma mientras avanzaba al ritmo de “Smells like teen spirit” de Nirvana o una versión rock de “Sweet dreams”.

Las pieles, el cuero, las plumas y los flecos se impusieron en la pasarela, sin temor a las superposiciones ni a la sobrecarga.

– El romanticismo de Ann Demeulemeester –

“La inocencia de la futura novia” quiso reflejar el director artístico de la firma belga Ann Demeulemeester, Sebastien Meunier, con una colección romántica, de contrastes de negro y blanco, así como de tejidos: el cuero se combina con los encajes, la seda y el satén.

Las plumas y las pieles adornan el atuendo y las modelos llevan un velo de encaje rígido sobre la cabeza, que a veces desciende hasta tapar los ojos.

– Las palomas de la paz de Alexis Mabille –
Alexis Mabille defendió que el mundo necesita urgentemente “la paz” e imprimió palomas blancas en sus sudaderas.

Dos amigas personales del francés, vestidas con un uniforme dorado de la cabeza a los pies, cantaron en directo en la sala de conciertos Pleyel mientras las modelos desfilaban con las manos en los bolsillos y unas botas altas doradas, que combinaron con prendas clásicas como las camisas de rayas o los vestidos de noche con lazos.

A model presents a creation by Rick Owens during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT

A model presents a creation by Rick Owens during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
A model presents a creation by Rick Owens during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
Models present creations by Rick Owens during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
Models present creations by Rick Owens during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
Models present creations by Rick Owens during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
 AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
 AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
French fashion designer Pascal Millet (R) acknowledges the audience at the end of his women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Balmain during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Balmain during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
A model presents a creation by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
Models present creations by Pascal Millet during the women's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris on March 2, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY
AFP PHOTO / bertrand GUAY